Eco Cab picked us up in a sparkling new Tesla. We got out at the KEL Station, stored our bags in the office, and walked to Grounds for Opportunity for some breakfast and coffee. GFO is a CAP sponsored training restaurant for unemployed and poorly prepared workers. A simple breakfast sandwich of sourdough bread, a sausage patty, fried egg, and cheese served me well. Pat was equally satisfied with her croissant and bacon sandwich.
We were out on the platform and ready to board when Train 11, the Coast Starlight, pulled in right on time, at 12:19. Sante, our Car 31 attendant, led us to Room 6 and we settled in for the ride.
The Coast Starlight, one of the Amtrak long distance trains, consists of bi-level cars for both coach and sleeper passengers. It is a lumbering old thing, very heavy, and usually about 12 cars in length. On this train, the Pacific Parlor Car was on line. Being a remnant of an older train, its floor sits six inches lower than the newer cars and that makes the passageway from the sleeper car a bit dicey, especially on rough track.
Our attendant had made lunch reservations for us and we dropped our bags in the room and walked to the dining car. We both ate chicken: Pat a chicken salad and I roasted breast with potatoes and gravy. Both were good, and a little more than we needed after our recent breakfast. Pat returned to the Parlor Car to spend the afternoon with a bunch of British and New Zealand drinkers and story tellers. I remained in the room to read, write, and nap.
From Portland south, the Willamette Valley was under the cloud of eastern Oregon wildfires. The clear sky was a hazy grey and near the horizon, a yellowish brown. The 90F weather gave us basically the kind of ugly, smoky, dusty, and dry late summer day I seriously dislike. As we neared evening and traveled past Eugene, the sky seemed to clear, a little.
We ate supper in the Pacific Parlor car. It’s not that different from the other cars, except its long history. But then most of Amtrak’s stock is aging.
Since Pat had been AWOL most of the afternoon, and I didn’t know where to find her, I made our reservations and ordered her a salmon salad. I asked for the lamb. The brilliant thing I did was to order an Arrogant Bastard Ale in the big bottle. It was a perfect fit to the rich gravy and flavors of the lamb. I balanced a rich, heavy meal with a rich, heavy ale and achieved a delightful synchronicity.
We haven’t traveled on a long distance train for several years now and have lost our edge for negotiating tight spots with luggage and big feet. It’ll come back, but it’s awkward. We figured we’ve traveled these trains in sleepers cross country several times before. In 2012, we traveled the VIA Canadian from Toronto to Vancouver, a four day ride. It’s both comfortable and workable. We just have to remember how.
The dining car is my favorite place on the train. Of course, I love food; but it is also a wonderful setting for meeting people, telling stories, and sharing travel. The randomness of the seating is a conversation lottery. This morning, we at with a large couple from Toronto. She was a German-from-Russia born in Ukraine, and he a Ukraine descendent. They are extensive travelers who like to talk about their experience. At lunch, we were with a businessman from Ventura and a young man who works as a tour guide for an adventure travel company. He was on his way home to a short vacation and then work on the family farm through the winter.
We arrived at LA Union Station at 21:00, a bit early and with just a touch of dusk remaining. The air was humid and hot, still in the upper 80s. I did a quick check with a security person, “Any trouble on the streets?” She replied, “They’re full of tourists!”
I thanked her and we headed out the door. We could see the bright neon sign over the top of the Pueblo building, “Metro Plaza Hotel” and aimed right for it.
By the time we walked through the door, my shirt was soaked with perspiration on my back under the backpack and under the shoulder straps. We checked in and headed up to our room 330, cranked up the AC and dropped our packs, bags, and clothes. Pat took a shower. We slept well.
I was awake at 04:00 and again at 06:15. After a shave and shower, I felt like having a day. We ate the meager motel breakfast with several cups of coffee and repacked our bags, sorting into the large bags everything we would not need. Walking to the station, we checked our large bags and climbed the stairs to the Metropolitan Lounge to drop off our daypacks before heading out.
We wandered the historic pueblo area, where what became Los Angeles had its start. A continuation of yesterday’s celebration honoring Mexican Independence was going on with a small demonstration and teach-in, music, and good feelings for those of Mexican descent. We wandered the shops, visited the 1818 Avila Adobe house–the oldest in LA, ate lunch, and kept up on fruit, water, and beer as the temperature pushed into the mid 90s.
Near the plaza is the la Iglesia de Nuestra Senora (the Church of Our Lady). Dedicated in December 1822 and renovated during the last century, it is a small, beautiful Spanish church of period art including a dancing portrait of St Francis the happy! I watched a grandmother bring her 18 month old grandson to the alter and knelt there with him. The beauty of it all made us forget the heat.

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